Zoxe's Getting Started Guide II - Painting

Basic Painting Supplies:  Q-Tips, Hobby Brushes, Disposable Brushes, Palette, and a small dropper bottle.

This is Part II of a (potentially) multi-part series. >> This is NOT a "how to paint" article << it's more about how to equip your bench with useful (and hopefully cheap) items.

Series Index
Part I - Getting Started Guide (Assembly)
Part II - Painting. That's here (duh).
Bonus - Filling in the Gaps

Disclaimer:  This post is a mix of how I got started, tools and techniques I currently use, and my opinions on the subject matter.  I'm not a pro modeler, and your goals may be very different than mine.

I'm assuming that you know how to use Google and can rustle up some beginning painting videos and know some of the basic terminology.  There are plenty out there.  I'm also assuming that you've read Part I and have your models reasonably assembled.

Brush Painting - here's a short list of things that I use regularly:

1. Primer.  Primer sticks to your figure and gives your paint something to adhere to.  If you don't use a good primer, your paint may flake off (especially on resin models).  There are many options here. Personally, I started with ArmyPainter rattle cans, but I would also recommend some of the brush-on primers like Vallejo Surface Primer.
2. Paint.  Standing in front of the rack of paints at the game store is an intimidating experience.  I recommend you get one of the premade starter sets from ArmyPainter or Reaper.  They're usually good value and you can do more than you think with the colors they include.  
3. A wash or ink.  These are fun to use and really bring life to your models by making the details pop out.  Usually included in the premade sets mentioned in #2.
4. Filler.  I currently use Milliput, or Vallejo Matt Varnish or Plastic Putty.  
5. Brushes.  Don't go crazy here, at least to start.  ArmyPainter's Most Wanted kit is good value.  Buy two packs, then upgrade once you've painted a little while.
6. A small dropper bottle.  This set is similar to what I use. Technically optional but so very handy.  I fill mine with distilled water for thinning.
7. Something to mix paint on.  Lots of options and opinions here.  I bought a 10-pack of "disposable" plastic palettes that I wash and reuse.  Technically a paper plate would work.  When I just need a dab of unthinned paint, I put a dot on a paper towel.
8. Misc/optional:  Paper towels, Q-tips, brush conditioner, desk lamp, distilled water
9. Optional:  Disposable brushes.  This set from HobbyLobby is good value.  I use mine for glues, some washes, and brushable fillers.  Sometimes I clean and reuse, sometimes I don't.

Left:  Paint from dropper bottles is easier for me to dispense, although P3 and Citadel paints work fine.
Right:  Vallejo Matt Varnish and Plastic Putty are water-based fillers.

Prepackaged starter sets feel like more money up front, but are usually good value and avoid "analysis paralysis."

Bonus  Tips (no particular order)
1. Multiple thin coats usually results in a far better surface finish than one thick clumpy coat.

2. I don't use a wet palette. This runs counter to a lot of advice out there.  Mrs. Zoxe uses one, but I have never acquired the taste.

3. Each brand - and each color! - of paint will come out of the bottle a little differently.  Paint also gets a little thicker as it ages.  Our hobby paints are heavy with pigments for the dense colors we want.  But straight from the bottle they're too thick to really spread evenly, so THIN THE PAINT (add water or other thinner) to avoid brush strokes and a clumpy finish.  There is no magic formula of "X drops paint to Y drops thinner" because every bottle you open will be different.

4. I generally thin until I get the consistency of skim milk, sometimes thicker or thinner depending what I'm trying to do. Because I don't use a wet palette, I mix relatively small amounts of paint and mix more before it starts to dry out.

But remember rule #3 above. It's about controlled application, not a "recipe."

5. I generally use paint brands that come in dropper bottles (Reaper, Vallejo, ArmyPainter) as I find I can control the amount of paint I have out, make less of a mess, and I waste less.

6. Clean your brush as you work. Err on the side of caution and clean more often than you think is necessary. You don't want dry paint building up in the bristles. Keep the brush as clean as possible and somewhat wet. After you swirl it in your cleanout can, wipe the excess water on a paper towel and spin the brush as you drag it to repoint the tip. A happy brush is a pointy brush.